Classic Climbs of France, Day 5, Col du Télégraphie and Col Du Galibier
This is part of a series of posts from my cycling trip to France to experience the “classic climbs” of the French Pyrénées, Alps, and Mont Ventoux.
Today’s Ride
Highlights
Last year I rode across the United States, coast to coast. I saw many beautiful mountain ranges, including the picturesque Cascades and the majestic Tetons. But nothing compared to the Rockies. Likewise, on this trip, while the Pyrénées and Mont Ventoux were beautiful, challenging, and amazing, nothing compares to the Alps. The moment we stepped out of our shuttle from Provence, the majesty of the Alps was overwhelming.
Our shuttle dropped us off in a shopping center near Sainte-Marie-de-Cuines. The air had a feel of a rainy day and that turned out to be the case. Our first climb was up to Col du Télégraphie, so named because of the transmission towers at the top. It was nice, and was definitely a challenge, climbing over 3,500 ft. But the more majestic and challenging climb lay ahead, Col du Galibier, peaking at over 8,600 ft. The pass (or “col” as they say over here) is far above the tree line and still dotted with snow. The climb featured green alpine landscapes, towering rocky peaks, endless switchbacks, melting show, rain, and dozens of springs. As we reached the top, a fog rolled in, or as they call it at 8,600 ft., “clouds.”
As I started to ride down (I was towards the back of the pack), a fierce headwind was blowing and the rain began to fall. I imagine that the decent is normally amazing, exhilarating, and beautiful, but I was focused on not falling, riding off a cliff, or freezing my butt off. As I descended I focused on a narrow window of visibility through my hood and sunglasses. My rain setup was pretty good, as I had a Goretex backpacking jacket, a hood (under my helmet), a cycling cap with a visor, not-too-dark sunglasses, and foot covers. It provided great visibility and kept my eyes and torso dry, but I was still very cold and trembled all the way down the 10-mile, 3,800 ft. descent to La Grave. That was definitely the worst weather I have ever cycled in.
To add insult to injury, there was a clap of thunder, making me question my safety and sanity, but I concluded it was far enough away– it was muffled with no visible lightning– that there was no imminent threat. Nevertheless, our guide Claire, who was driving the SAG that day, pulled in a parking lot several hundred feet ahead of me and encouraged me to call it, and let her drive me to the hotel. But… being pigheaded and stubborn, and seeing that there was only 2.5 miles to go (all downhill), I successfully pleaded my case to finish. Of the remaining 2.5 miles, it turns out that about a third of it was through tunnels, which provided enormous relief from the terrible weather that was testing my resolve.
I finally arrived at the hotel in La Grave — the amazing Hôtel Edelweiss, run by a wonderful couple, Robin and Marlon. The hotel was cozy and charming and the perfect place to dry off, take off the chill, and enjoy a Hefe Weizen. I grabbed a long, hot shower and enjoyed a relaxing dinner with my crew mates.
